Monday, March 22, 2021

Alaska - Part 1

Let’s start with the fact that it has been 382 days since I’ve been in an Uber, ridden on a CTA bus or train, or boarded an airplane.  This, coming from someone who spent 2019 flying more than 110,000 miles for work and for fun.  Which is not to say that Damon and I have been completely homebound for the past year – we’ve just been careful, opting to road trip and camp a little bit closer to home rather than fly.  And Hallelujah, that is about to change. 

It is not that I was worried about flying – I’ve done the research and believe that flying is about as safe, if not safer, than going to the grocery store.  I guess the best way to explain it is that Covid put a weight on my life this past year and I have found it easier to just stay home rather than expend the energy to figure out how to do things outside of the bubble I’ve lived in for the past 12 months.  With vaccines around the corner for all of us (no, we have not been vaccinated yet), and the end (hopefully) in sight, we are ready to get out and start moving again! 

It is spring break, and like most normal people who are just coming out of a slightly brutal winter, we decided to head for warm weather, pina coladas, and sandy beaches.  Ha ha, no we didn’t.  We are idiots heading to Alaska in the middle of winter.  Why Alaska?  It is simple.  I have been on a quest to see the Northern Lights for about a decade.  For a Midwesterner, that is not a simple task because there are so many things that come into play when hunting for the lights – being in the “ring”, KP value, cloud cover, ambient light…  Although my mom likes to tell me regularly, “isn’t it funny how you are always looking for the Northern Lights and Izzie – my niece – was at camp and they just got to see them!”  Yeah, mom.  I do find that hilarious.

Thanks to a friend who lives in Fairbanks, I learned that the spring solstice (March 21) is the perfect time to see the lights.  Upon further research, I learned that if you visit area in March and you spend 3 nights out hunting for the lights – meaning spending from 10pm-2am parked in the dark, generally in sub-zero temperatures - there is a 100% chance you will freeze your ass off, but there is also a 90% chance you will see the Northern Lights.  I was sold and Damon didn’t take much convincing.  We opted for 7 nights in Fairbanks, giving us, by my calculations 90% + 90% + 30% = a 210% chance of seeing the Northern Lights.  New math.

For the past two weeks, I’ve been monitoring four different iPhone aurora apps, the Fairbanks cloud cover prediction website, weather apps, watching YouTube videos and researching the “Google” to maximize our chances.  I gave up on the wind speeds, phases of the moon and other meteorological metrics because I didn’t want to go overboard.  For the past three nights, every time I woke up I checked the apps to see if the lights were visible in Fairbanks because that has absolutely no predictive value but makes me feel like I’m doing something to increase our odds.

If you see the Northern Lights but don’t have a National Geographic quality photo to commemorate the sighting, did you really see them?  Damon bought me a DLSR camera about 10 years ago.  While taking multiple classes in person and on-line over the years, I still have only ever used the auto setting because, much like meteorological metrics and iTunes, I just don’t get it.  So, for the past two weeks, I’ve spent hours watching camera videos and taking notes, writing down preferred settings, testing and making sure I know where all the buttons are.  I’ll be the one with the laminated instruction sheet in -15 degree weather trying to set my shutter speed and ISO.  Or I’ll be sitting in a warm car while Damon does it.  Either we aim to have proof of success.

Packing for this trip has been interesting.  By day, the plan is to work from home or go sled-dog mushing and by night the plan is to hunt for the lights.  That means a combination of work acceptable shirts for top half and sweatpants for bottom half, plus every possible layer I can put on for outdoor and overnight activities.  I have lithium batteries that power my boot insoles, my mittens and my vest (4 batteries, 2 chargers), plus instant heat packs for boots and mittens, plus, yes, our BRIGHT YELLOW Antarctica jackets that everyone makes fun of, plus long underwear, fleece sweat pants, wind proof ski pants, thick wool socks, hats, balaclava, scarf, boots, turtlenecks, fleece, hooded sweatshirt… try getting that into one suitcase.  At Damon’s insistence, I had to reduce what I was bringing, so I took out one pair of long underwear and added another suitcase. 

And so the day finally arrived.  We were packed and ready to go.  Opened the Uber app to get us to the airport and holy heck – prices have gone up in the past year!  What used to be a $30 ride to O’Hare is now $66.  Nope.  We are cheap.  Public transportation for us!  We dragged our 90 pounds of crap 2 blocks to the bus stop and off we went.  The bus was fine – only a few people on, all masked up.  The train was fine – also relatively not crowded with everyone masked up.  We got to the airport and the hallways were empty, the luggage carousel area was empty, and the escalator was empty, until we got to ground level.

I kid you not, there were 12 billion people in the ticketing area.  It was so packed that we could barely get off the escalator because no one could move.  It was wall to wall people and you literally had to shove your way through the mass of people.  If you’ve ever wondered, yes, Spring Break trumps Pandemic – even in Illinois.  Thankfully, I still have my 1K status despite the lack of flying in 2020, so we were able to get checked in and through security quickly.  With only 7 minutes until we started boarding, no time to get infected in the sit-down areas.  We walked to the gate and got right on the plane.  My favorite plane – the 777-wide body.

I used some credits to bid on an upgrade and we lucked out.  While we didn’t get to sit near each other, having a completely private pod more than 6’ from the nearest mouth breather was a nice way to ease back into flying.  Our first leg to Denver was uneventful – sort of felt like home again – luckily a perfectly smooth flight.  We had a super short layover in Denver and basically walked to the new gate and got right on the flight to Anchorage.  Only I got the upgrade on this leg, so we did split up for the 5-hour leg.  Damon has always made fun of (been jealous of?) the fact that no matter where we are in the world or when, it is almost inevitable that I will bump into someone I know.   About 3 hours into the flight, keeping in mind that I’m fully masked, I hear “Donna?  Donna?” from the person sitting next to me (separated by the aisle).  Turns out that a family friend, Mayer, has been sitting right next to me, had seen my post on FB this morning that we were going to Alaska, noticed the yellow jackets, and figured it had to be me sitting by him.  Small world!

While I get the feeling that, ironically, I’m one of the last people to get on a plane since Covid, I’ll put in my $.02.  Yes, masks are kind of a bummer; yes, you are sitting very close to other people and it is just a really weird feeling given how much we’ve been avoiding contact for the past year, and yes, I could complain about the lack of decent food.  But for the most part, it was really no big deal and not very different from normal days of flying.  It will be interesting to see how long it takes the world to get over the paranoia of being around other people.

This is turning into a super long blog post given that we haven’t done anything yet, but I miss travelling and I miss writing!

***

Editor’s Note – while I often write a day or two after events have unfolded, everything written up to this point was written on Friday before we got off the plane in Anchorage.  Everything following was written on Sunday & Monday.

***

My mother was diagnosed with Covid about 2 ½ weeks ago.  We don’t know how or where or when she got it.  We think it was just before she received her second vaccine shot.  The irony.  We missed the initial symptoms because they were masked by what we thought were side effects of the vaccine.  In any case, when she was finally diagnosed, her symptoms included extreme coughing, fever, nausea, brain fog and vomiting.  The hospital deemed her not sick enough to be admitted, but we felt she was too symptomatic to stay alone, so we admitted her to a facility that would be able to monitor her symptoms and administer basic medications 24/7.  After a few bad days with a horrible cough, she started to improve and after about a week, the facility said that she would be released at the 2-week mark (3 weeks after onset of symptoms) to ensure she was no longer contagious.  With that in mind and the encouragement of my mother, Damon and I left for Alaska, expecting her to be home later this week, out of the woods, to finish her recuperation.

***

We landed in Anchorage on Friday afternoon/early evening and had a 5-hour layover.  I called my mom to check in and we talked for a while about the trip and aurora predictions for that night, the flight, etc.  Other than complaining of some slight stomach pain, which we all attributed to irregular eating and normal GI distress, she was totally fine and looking forward to going home.  Damon and I took a taxi into downtown Anchorage, had some dinner, and Uber’d back for our flight.  My friend Elaine and her sister Chris, coming from San Francisco & San Diego, were supposed to meet us in the airport and we were all on the same flight to Fairbanks.  Their flight was delayed and while they had enough time to make the flight, they had issues with their luggage and couldn’t get their luggage re-checked in time, and with policies in place ensuring that people are not separated from their luggage, they ended up missing the flight by less than 5 minutes and had to stay in Anchorage while we flew to Fairbanks.

We got to Fairbanks and picked up our rental car, and that was when I got a call from my sister stating that my mom had been admitted to the emergency room because she had passed out from stomach pain and possibly hit her head.  Abbreviating several hours of information, within a fairly short period of time, we learned that she had a massive bleed in her upper intestinal tract and was losing blood quickly.  She had been taking blood thinners, an approved treatment for Covid to avoid blood clots, and that was exacerbating the bleeding.  The doctors reversed the blood thinner and she was given blood infusions before being taken to Radiology where they performed a several hour procedure to attempt to repair the bleed without invasive surgery.  If that was unsuccessful, she would be take to surgery, which was a last resort given the very high mortality rate of patients undergoing surgery within 6 weeks of having Covid.  We couldn’t talk to her and visitors are not allowed in the hospital.  The doctors “prepared us”.

Alaska - Part 2

I was scared shitless.  We are 3,500 miles away with no way to get home and no way to do anything.  It was about 10pm in Alaska (1am in Chicago).  Damon & I regrouped at our Airbnb and with no way to do anything productive, we decided to go try to see the Northern Lights for a distraction.  If we only had one night, let’s make the best of it.  We packed the car with camera gear and layers of clothes and warming devices. In the pitch black, we were headed to a popular aurora viewing location called Murphy Dome.  The conditions were near perfect.  Before we had even gotten out of the driveway, we noticed some weird smudges in the sky and excitedly realized they were probably the lights.  Not 50’ from our house, we pulled into a random driveway and started looking at the sky.  The aurora was clear but not really the vibrant green I was expecting – it was, as I said “smudgey” looking.  I was worried that there was too much ambient light from passing cars, so we jumped in the car to get to Murphy Dome.  In the 30-minute drive, we could see the aurora forming and moving – still more whiteish than green ish, but clearly the aurora.  We were almost to the top (not knowing there was a top with a parking area) and Damon got excited and pulled to the side of the road. 

The road was hardpacked snow about 2 lanes wide.  We were driving a Toyota Highlander with all wheel drive.  When Damon pulled over, he realized quickly that the edges of the road were not hardpack, but rather very soft and very deep snow.  Our front passenger tire sunk immediately.  In attempting to get unstuck, we got more stuck.  So here we are, on the side of a hill, sunk in snow, in -10 degree weather, trying to see the elusive aurora.  Luckily, several cars stopped to help us.  A pick-up hitched a tow line to our car and dragged us out of the snow.  One of the girls in the truck came over and was showing me pictures saying that the aurora views at the top of the dome had been spectacular for the past few hours – she had pictures on her iPhone, which is near impossible.  By the time we got pulled out, the hole where the front passenger tire had been was easily 2’ deep – the car frame had been resting on the snow.  We do have a knack for running into car issues… but with all four wheels on solid ground, we were off again.

We got to the top of the dome where about 30-40 cars were parked.  Everyone had their tripods outside their car windows with remotes to take photos from inside their cars because it is flipping cold.  We stayed up there an hour or so watching and taking pictures going outside for a few, then going back to the car to warm up.  I think we caught the tail end of what had been a spectacular show.  We did not quite comprehend how cold it would be and how hard it would be to make camera adjustments mid-shoot, so we did the best we could and got fifty blurry green smudges that are pretty typical for first time aurora hunters.  The aurora was not what I expected – it moved slowly and created some interesting ribbons and swirls.  The green color was not obvious to the naked eye but was captured on camera.  I think we left around 1 or 1:30 local time (4-4:30 Chicago time) having been up nearly 24 hours. 

On our way back to the Airbnb, my sister finally called with a report that the doctors had been able to repair the bleed without surgery (no incision) and they were guardedly pleased with the results.  A huge weight was lifted but they couldn’t be sure that they found everything until time had passed.  I slept for about 2-3 hours, on high alert for a phone call or text with news, fearful of what news it might be.  I finally got a call that our mom was stable around 5am local.  With the speed in which the turn of events happened, I had to inform our close family and friends who had no idea that any of this was going on.  By the time that was done, the exhaustion set in and I slept for another 2 hours.

With my mom stable and no way to see her in the immediate future, we decided to take it day by day and stay.  We left the house to try to find breakfast and had some time to kill before picking up Elaine & Chris at the airport, so we went to a photography shop to rent a wide-angle lens and maybe get some better pictures on night 2, which was also predicted to be great aurora viewing.  The shop owner is a professional photographer who loves the aurora.  He told us that last night, from about 9:30-11, had been the most amazing display he had seen in his 40 years in Fairbanks – reds and greens, swirls, ribbons and a bunch of other lingo I can’t remember.  He said it was amazing.  And yes, we totally missed it.  We were literally right there but missed it.  Alas, the aurora has beaten me again.  We saw some pictures posted on Facebook taken that first night and damn that was some good aurora!

We picked up Elaine & Chris at the airport and with a few hours before sunset, we went to the 2021 World Ice Art Championship at the local Fairgrounds.  The first part of the exhibit was (to our untrained eyes), very cool.  There were some simple and intricate ice carvings of all sizes showing several techniques for clear, cloudy, and ribboned ice, among other things.  But the best part of the exhibit, says the 5-year-old in me, was the ice slides.  We came across the first one, which was about 3’ tall and had maybe a 6’ slide.  Once I shoved all of the small children out of the way (no, I waited), I slid down.  Then had to do it again.  Keep in mind that the steps are ice, the hand holds are ice and the slide is ice.  Lots of people have gone up and down and ice is slippery.  So I got up the second time and tried to sit down without sliding down on my feet, lost my center of gravity and just slid/fell down the back steps.  Ever the graceful one… or as Damon would say “mein fleur”.

As we wandered, the slides got bigger and bigger.  We found taller slides, “the temple of doom” with a turn, and eventually got to the ice luge.  We all did the ice luge.  When it was my turn, I had noticed another adult in line behind me.  Adults on an ice luge move faster and further than the average child.  When I came to a stop, I thought I saw the guy coming in hot behind me out of the corner of my eye.  In my haste to get out of the way, naturally, I slipped on the ice and opted to barrel roll over the ice wall to get out of the way.  Of course, he hadn’t even started his slide yet and my glamourous exit was captured on video because as Damon also says “when Donna is doing something stupid, you never stop recording”.

Having exhausted all the slides, we were like, wow - $15 well spent!  And then we saw a sign for the ice sculpture exhibit.  Apparently, we had spent all that time in the kid area and never even made it to the main event.  The ice sculptures were amazing – nestled in a pine (?) forest.  Single and multi-block competitors, youth competition, some interactive exhibits, some not.  All in all, truly talented people in this world.  I had been distracted from thinking about my mom and trying to enjoy the time that I could, and then the next horrific call came.

My mom had been complaining about pain in her abdomen all day, which is to a certain extent, normal, but with increasing doses of morphine not having an impact, the doctors were worried.  The medical team determined that she had intestinal blockages that she would not survive if they did not fix immediately.  With no option, she had consented, and we agreed to immediate surgery.  We were told in no uncertain terms that it was incredibly high risk and to “be prepared”.  Keeping in mind that one day prior, a surgeon had called this surgery a “hail mary”, we were completely freaked out.  How does our perfectly healthy and strong, independent, vibrant mother with genes that should have her living until at least 100 get reduced to a hail mary in one day.  I immediately booked a 1am red-eye flight home to be close by in preparation for the worst.

Alaska - Part 3

We had a few glasses of wine at the house and then went for dinner.  During dinner, my sister called, which lately causes a feeling of dread and adrenalin rush for the seconds before she tells me what the latest news is.  This time, the news was good.  Our mom had survived the surgery and the internal damage was not as extensive as everyone had feared.  The doctors were able to restore blood flow to her organs and her heart was still strong.  They told us that she was stable, but they would have to go back in tomorrow to remove her gall bladder and any other dead tissue.  While getting past one major hurdle, she is experiencing the vascular issues related to Covid, meaning she has blood clots that keep forming and they don’t know why.  This has been like Covid whack-a-mole where they fix one thing and some new horrific thing pops up just to flip you the finger.  With some sense of temporary relief, we finished dinner.

For those people (pretty much everyone) who have made fun of our yellow jackets, while at dinner we spotted a fellow yellow-jacket person, I chased her down and made her come back to our table so we could bond and take a picture.  Take that yellow-jacket haters!  There are more of us out there.

With a few more hours to kill before heading to the airport, we took another stab at finding the Northern Lights.  We drove to a different lookout spot and waited for the sky to get completely dark, which didn’t happen until about 10:30 and just watched and waited.  We finally had to give up some time between 11-11:30 with no sightings.  My flight home was thankfully uneventful and when I landed at O’Hare Sunday afternoon, the news was that my mom was still stable.  As I left literally with just the clothes on my back and a backpack, Damon stayed behind to settle everything up and will be home tomorrow. 

As of today (Monday), my mom has had three procedures/surgeries to repair an intestinal bleed, restore vascular flow to major organs, remove her gall bladder, remove 3’ of intestine and look for clots.  She is fully sedated and currently stable waiting for another procedure this evening to look for any additional damage.  She turns 82 one week from today and is defying the odds at every turn.  We are by no means out of the woods, but we remain ever hopeful for a positive outcome.  I am not a religious person and normally do not subscribe to “thoughts and prayers”, but for anyone reading this who believes in the power of prayer, by all means, give it all you’ve got.  We need it.

On a final note, we are the people who never thought this could happen to us.  It only happens to other people.  You read about it in the news.  It is a stranger or a friend of a friend.  Well, it is happening to us and living through having a loved one go through this is absolute hell.  Covid is not a joke.  It can happen to you, it can happen to a loved one, it can happen if you are otherwise healthy, it can happen if you are partially vaccinated, it can happen if you typically wear a mask and it can happen if you are careful.  We have NO IDEA how or where or when she caught it.  If you can get a vaccine, get it.  Even if you THINK you are immune or likely to have “just a flu” or are asymptomatic, you have no idea if someone’s mother or father or sister or brother may not.