Monday, March 22, 2021

Alaska - Part 1

Let’s start with the fact that it has been 382 days since I’ve been in an Uber, ridden on a CTA bus or train, or boarded an airplane.  This, coming from someone who spent 2019 flying more than 110,000 miles for work and for fun.  Which is not to say that Damon and I have been completely homebound for the past year – we’ve just been careful, opting to road trip and camp a little bit closer to home rather than fly.  And Hallelujah, that is about to change. 

It is not that I was worried about flying – I’ve done the research and believe that flying is about as safe, if not safer, than going to the grocery store.  I guess the best way to explain it is that Covid put a weight on my life this past year and I have found it easier to just stay home rather than expend the energy to figure out how to do things outside of the bubble I’ve lived in for the past 12 months.  With vaccines around the corner for all of us (no, we have not been vaccinated yet), and the end (hopefully) in sight, we are ready to get out and start moving again! 

It is spring break, and like most normal people who are just coming out of a slightly brutal winter, we decided to head for warm weather, pina coladas, and sandy beaches.  Ha ha, no we didn’t.  We are idiots heading to Alaska in the middle of winter.  Why Alaska?  It is simple.  I have been on a quest to see the Northern Lights for about a decade.  For a Midwesterner, that is not a simple task because there are so many things that come into play when hunting for the lights – being in the “ring”, KP value, cloud cover, ambient light…  Although my mom likes to tell me regularly, “isn’t it funny how you are always looking for the Northern Lights and Izzie – my niece – was at camp and they just got to see them!”  Yeah, mom.  I do find that hilarious.

Thanks to a friend who lives in Fairbanks, I learned that the spring solstice (March 21) is the perfect time to see the lights.  Upon further research, I learned that if you visit area in March and you spend 3 nights out hunting for the lights – meaning spending from 10pm-2am parked in the dark, generally in sub-zero temperatures - there is a 100% chance you will freeze your ass off, but there is also a 90% chance you will see the Northern Lights.  I was sold and Damon didn’t take much convincing.  We opted for 7 nights in Fairbanks, giving us, by my calculations 90% + 90% + 30% = a 210% chance of seeing the Northern Lights.  New math.

For the past two weeks, I’ve been monitoring four different iPhone aurora apps, the Fairbanks cloud cover prediction website, weather apps, watching YouTube videos and researching the “Google” to maximize our chances.  I gave up on the wind speeds, phases of the moon and other meteorological metrics because I didn’t want to go overboard.  For the past three nights, every time I woke up I checked the apps to see if the lights were visible in Fairbanks because that has absolutely no predictive value but makes me feel like I’m doing something to increase our odds.

If you see the Northern Lights but don’t have a National Geographic quality photo to commemorate the sighting, did you really see them?  Damon bought me a DLSR camera about 10 years ago.  While taking multiple classes in person and on-line over the years, I still have only ever used the auto setting because, much like meteorological metrics and iTunes, I just don’t get it.  So, for the past two weeks, I’ve spent hours watching camera videos and taking notes, writing down preferred settings, testing and making sure I know where all the buttons are.  I’ll be the one with the laminated instruction sheet in -15 degree weather trying to set my shutter speed and ISO.  Or I’ll be sitting in a warm car while Damon does it.  Either we aim to have proof of success.

Packing for this trip has been interesting.  By day, the plan is to work from home or go sled-dog mushing and by night the plan is to hunt for the lights.  That means a combination of work acceptable shirts for top half and sweatpants for bottom half, plus every possible layer I can put on for outdoor and overnight activities.  I have lithium batteries that power my boot insoles, my mittens and my vest (4 batteries, 2 chargers), plus instant heat packs for boots and mittens, plus, yes, our BRIGHT YELLOW Antarctica jackets that everyone makes fun of, plus long underwear, fleece sweat pants, wind proof ski pants, thick wool socks, hats, balaclava, scarf, boots, turtlenecks, fleece, hooded sweatshirt… try getting that into one suitcase.  At Damon’s insistence, I had to reduce what I was bringing, so I took out one pair of long underwear and added another suitcase. 

And so the day finally arrived.  We were packed and ready to go.  Opened the Uber app to get us to the airport and holy heck – prices have gone up in the past year!  What used to be a $30 ride to O’Hare is now $66.  Nope.  We are cheap.  Public transportation for us!  We dragged our 90 pounds of crap 2 blocks to the bus stop and off we went.  The bus was fine – only a few people on, all masked up.  The train was fine – also relatively not crowded with everyone masked up.  We got to the airport and the hallways were empty, the luggage carousel area was empty, and the escalator was empty, until we got to ground level.

I kid you not, there were 12 billion people in the ticketing area.  It was so packed that we could barely get off the escalator because no one could move.  It was wall to wall people and you literally had to shove your way through the mass of people.  If you’ve ever wondered, yes, Spring Break trumps Pandemic – even in Illinois.  Thankfully, I still have my 1K status despite the lack of flying in 2020, so we were able to get checked in and through security quickly.  With only 7 minutes until we started boarding, no time to get infected in the sit-down areas.  We walked to the gate and got right on the plane.  My favorite plane – the 777-wide body.

I used some credits to bid on an upgrade and we lucked out.  While we didn’t get to sit near each other, having a completely private pod more than 6’ from the nearest mouth breather was a nice way to ease back into flying.  Our first leg to Denver was uneventful – sort of felt like home again – luckily a perfectly smooth flight.  We had a super short layover in Denver and basically walked to the new gate and got right on the flight to Anchorage.  Only I got the upgrade on this leg, so we did split up for the 5-hour leg.  Damon has always made fun of (been jealous of?) the fact that no matter where we are in the world or when, it is almost inevitable that I will bump into someone I know.   About 3 hours into the flight, keeping in mind that I’m fully masked, I hear “Donna?  Donna?” from the person sitting next to me (separated by the aisle).  Turns out that a family friend, Mayer, has been sitting right next to me, had seen my post on FB this morning that we were going to Alaska, noticed the yellow jackets, and figured it had to be me sitting by him.  Small world!

While I get the feeling that, ironically, I’m one of the last people to get on a plane since Covid, I’ll put in my $.02.  Yes, masks are kind of a bummer; yes, you are sitting very close to other people and it is just a really weird feeling given how much we’ve been avoiding contact for the past year, and yes, I could complain about the lack of decent food.  But for the most part, it was really no big deal and not very different from normal days of flying.  It will be interesting to see how long it takes the world to get over the paranoia of being around other people.

This is turning into a super long blog post given that we haven’t done anything yet, but I miss travelling and I miss writing!

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Editor’s Note – while I often write a day or two after events have unfolded, everything written up to this point was written on Friday before we got off the plane in Anchorage.  Everything following was written on Sunday & Monday.

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My mother was diagnosed with Covid about 2 ½ weeks ago.  We don’t know how or where or when she got it.  We think it was just before she received her second vaccine shot.  The irony.  We missed the initial symptoms because they were masked by what we thought were side effects of the vaccine.  In any case, when she was finally diagnosed, her symptoms included extreme coughing, fever, nausea, brain fog and vomiting.  The hospital deemed her not sick enough to be admitted, but we felt she was too symptomatic to stay alone, so we admitted her to a facility that would be able to monitor her symptoms and administer basic medications 24/7.  After a few bad days with a horrible cough, she started to improve and after about a week, the facility said that she would be released at the 2-week mark (3 weeks after onset of symptoms) to ensure she was no longer contagious.  With that in mind and the encouragement of my mother, Damon and I left for Alaska, expecting her to be home later this week, out of the woods, to finish her recuperation.

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We landed in Anchorage on Friday afternoon/early evening and had a 5-hour layover.  I called my mom to check in and we talked for a while about the trip and aurora predictions for that night, the flight, etc.  Other than complaining of some slight stomach pain, which we all attributed to irregular eating and normal GI distress, she was totally fine and looking forward to going home.  Damon and I took a taxi into downtown Anchorage, had some dinner, and Uber’d back for our flight.  My friend Elaine and her sister Chris, coming from San Francisco & San Diego, were supposed to meet us in the airport and we were all on the same flight to Fairbanks.  Their flight was delayed and while they had enough time to make the flight, they had issues with their luggage and couldn’t get their luggage re-checked in time, and with policies in place ensuring that people are not separated from their luggage, they ended up missing the flight by less than 5 minutes and had to stay in Anchorage while we flew to Fairbanks.

We got to Fairbanks and picked up our rental car, and that was when I got a call from my sister stating that my mom had been admitted to the emergency room because she had passed out from stomach pain and possibly hit her head.  Abbreviating several hours of information, within a fairly short period of time, we learned that she had a massive bleed in her upper intestinal tract and was losing blood quickly.  She had been taking blood thinners, an approved treatment for Covid to avoid blood clots, and that was exacerbating the bleeding.  The doctors reversed the blood thinner and she was given blood infusions before being taken to Radiology where they performed a several hour procedure to attempt to repair the bleed without invasive surgery.  If that was unsuccessful, she would be take to surgery, which was a last resort given the very high mortality rate of patients undergoing surgery within 6 weeks of having Covid.  We couldn’t talk to her and visitors are not allowed in the hospital.  The doctors “prepared us”.

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