Saturday, January 19, 2019

Day 3 - Antarctica - The Drake Shake (part 3)


My original posting for today was going to be a simple sentence or two describing what we did all day, which was basically – wake up, eat breakfast, attend a glacier presentation (while Damon napped), attend a camping seminar (while I napped), eat lunch, nap, attend another presentation, nap, eat dinner, attend presentation, bedtime.  The bulk of the day was eating and napping – which is quite nice.

Since we don’t have any official activities today, writing topics are rather sparse, so, I’ll focus on some other things we’ve learned, including the level of carnage sustained by the rogue waves yesterday.   Luckily, the rogue wave was an anomaly.  The rolling waves continued throughout the day, but we happily enjoyed our little 5 meter (15') swells and I now feel I have mastered the art of hanging on to anything I can grab hold of while walking around the ship so as not to fall over.

I mentioned that the rogue wave was 12 meters high (confirmed by the captain).  That is over 36’.  Think about it.  It was freaking huge.  The information desk is on the 5th level.  They said the wave hit us so hard that it actually came in through one of the outer doors and put about 4-5” of sea water in the reception area.  This was confirmed by several people who saw the water.

The captain did his welcome address and addressed the waves.  He confirmed that we listed 25 degrees and added that the waves caught them by surprise because it is so rare to have huge rogue wave sets when the rest of the passage had been consistently at about 5 meters.  Suffice to say that he did NOT laugh it off as NOT a big deal.   I think it was a bigger deal than they made it out to be.  He said something along the lines (in a thick Ukrainian accent) “25-degree list.  That is not something we want”.  We also heard from other passengers that some of the staff were breaking out their emergency gear but didn't want to bring them out for fear of freaking out the guests.

We played the “where were you when the wave hit” game with everyone.  We heard the story of a man who was in mid-hot stone massage when the wave hit.  The stones all fell off and when the masseuse went to pick them up, he flew off the table, landed on her, and the two of them were tossed back and forth in a tangled mess together.

We saw a video of the mom and daughter also flying around their room – luckily, they were mostly hanging onto their beds.  The daughter got bruised up when she ended up under her bed.

There were some people in the lounge area during one of the presentations and given that everything in that room is bolted to the floor, they were the lucky ones and didn’t feel much.  Apparently, the presenter was such an experienced boater, that she was able to just sway with it with both of her feet planted.  Impressive.

We all laugh about the stories now, but it was a bit freaky when it was happening.

Even though the bad waves only lasted a minute or two, I think everyone on this ship is content with feeling the wrath of the Drake Shake.  And we are ready for the Drake Lake on the way home.

We always try to make a point to sit with new people whenever we are all gathered together.  All meals are open seating and all of the presentations are as well.  Since the chairs are bolted to the floor (for good reason) we often just find ourselves sharing tables with other people and learning about their lives.  

A few tidbits:
Lots of people have come on this trip as singles – and I don’t mean looking for a spouse kind of single, I mean that their spouses or friends didn’t have the same sense of adventure and didn’t want to come, so these people basically just said “screw it” and showed up alone.  Lots of respect for them!  Lots of 20-somethings.  

We sat with a mother and daughter.  They were on their own because dad and brothers are not travelers.  This trip was the daughter’s college grad present.  A trip with mom to South Africa was her high school grad present.  Times have sure changed.  I got a typewriter after high school and a suitcase after college!

We sat with a Belgian woman, about 60, who was travelling alone.  She is an orthopedic surgeon and a private pilot with her own plane.  Damon was in seventh heaven talking to her.

The staff members are from all over the world and it is always interesting to hear how they ended up in Antarctica, and they all have different stories.  Our glaciologist (Scottish) and our photography expert (South African) are married.  They spend 7 months of the year on ships and split the rest of their time among a few countries.  We learned that there are at least 2 married couples and 2 dating couples among the staff.  

As far as the general passenger make-up – there are old people and young people, although I haven’t seen any kids.  There are single travelers, couples and a few families.  There are fit people and people walking on walkers and canes.  For anyone who things a trip to Antarctica is only for a certain type of person, you’d be very wrong.  Anyone and everyone is here.

By dinner time, we had (thankfully) gotten entirely through the Drake passage and into what was supposed to be a protected area.  Because we were entering the iceberg zone, the captain had to retract the ship stabilizers so we were still rockin and a rollin’ when we went to bed and for the next few hours.  It is extremely disconcerting when lying in bed with the ship listing so far in each direction that you are rolling from one side of the bed to the other with each wave.  Eventually we both fell asleep.  But, still, no nausea issues.

I also forgot to mention that due to the bumpy waters, the outer decks had been closed for the majority of our trip so we have been locked inside almost the entire time so far.  Which, quite frankly, is fine with me.  No need to worry about getting washed overboard...


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